The most important part of high-quality cooking is using what is fresh. We happen to have acquired a hefty amount of fresh shitake mushrooms at the farmer’s market this week so, when it came time to make a mushroom risotto we used what we had. Fresh shitakes are much less pungent than their dried counterparts but still retain a thick meaty texture. If you do not have fresh shitakes for this recipe we would recommend using what is available to you be it portobello, cremini, porcini, or something fun you found at the local Asian market (these are some of my favorite mushrooms and some day I will figure out their English names). Another alternative is to reconstitute a large quantity of shitake mushrooms in the broth you use for the recipe. This will add a substantial amount of flavor to your liquid, but be warned that the mushrooms may never be as tender as their fresh counterparts.
Whatever mushroom route you choose, if you choose risotto you are in for some laborious cooking. The techniques behind risotto are not difficult. What is hard, even for the most dedicated home cook, is not breaking attention on the task at hand. Risotto is meditative work so when the recipe says “stir continuously” it does not mean take a minute to check your email or refresh your cocktail. Keep stirring and a tender, flavorful reward awaits.